broadway hit captures era, and saves a tailor
25,2007. The cloth pieces displayed in the quiet showroom of the merchant tailor of St. Laurie made a serious commercial sound --
Black Blue, shades of gray and brown, subtle stripes and folds.
You have to venture back to the neighboring suit factory and see the fabric screaming \"show time!
\"There, next to the table where the knives wave their feet of scissors, there is a shelf of cloth that stands out, and the contents almost glow and heat.
Bolts of red and gold silk brocade and shiny crimson material will soon be shaped into jackets for London actors in the Broadway musical \"Jersey Boys.
The show opened in London.
St. Laurie, one of Manhattan\'s last custom suits, since the Jersey boys were released on Broadway two years ago, the cast has produced almost all the costumes depicting Frankie Wally and the four seasons.
As the show expands to other cities, clothing that was originally made as a small order has grown to more than 400 pieces.
\"Jersey boy\" now accounts for about one-third of St.
Laurie\'s business has helped reverse the company\'s declining fortunes.
\"It\'s a big boost to our business,\" said Andrew Kozinn, president of the company . \".
\"I think a lot of people do a good job on this show.
\"Advertising extends a performance branch from Broadway to stage across the country, which can be a boon to many small businesses serving the theater industry in New York.
According to estimates by the American theater and producer Union, the annual cost of touring Broadway is about $0. 185 billion, more than $0. 755 billion for Broadway shows.
\"Sometimes, even for a whole month, we won\'t have much work, but because of the \'Jersey Boy\', we \'ve been busy,\" said Rosi Zingales, owner of the Studio Rouge costume store, clothing for the three actresses in the play.
Still, other vendors of \"Jersey Boys\" may not need to be as successful as St. Laurie.
This company is by Mr.
In 1913, Kozinn\'s grandfather hired more than 100 workers at a factory in the Flatiron district, producing up to 30,000 suits a year in his 1980 s.
St. Laurie now produces between 1,000 and 1,400 sets of custom suits each year for between $1,300 and $1,800.
Its staff has shrunk to 15.
The big recession started after 90, when the point-
Dressed in Silicon Valley has brought prosperity.
Manhattan meeting room and office style.
Bankers and lawyers have adopted kha pants and polo wholesale t shirts wholesale from the new technology crowd, and sales of traditional suits have fallen sharply.
For St. Laurie, a relaxed dress code is a disaster.
Just when Mr. arrived
Kozinn made a big bet on Park Avenue.
To sell more custom suits to financial executives, he opened a retail store near Waldorf --
The company\'s factory was sold at the Astoria Hotel in 1997. Mr.
Kozinn recalls how surprised a customer was when he started walking into the store without wearing a suit jacket.
\"It\'s ridiculous,\" he said, and it\'s still boiling very quickly throughout the stage.
\"People have these beautiful offices on Park Avenue, the most gorgeous meeting rooms, art on the walls, and beautiful carpets, and a man who looks like a lazy man walks out.
Soon, young customers announced they would never need a suit again.
He recalled that Kexin knew he was in a difficult time.
The subsequent decline in sales almost bankrupt St. Laurie. Mr.
Kozinn\'s 28-year-old son, Jacob, who is now a designer at the company, says business has stopped making money, but he and his father refuse to accept defeat.
\"We are just stubborn people . \"Kozinn said.
\"We managed to get through all the ups and downs of the industry.
We are very proud of what we have done.
Kozinns returned to a scale-
A factory on the fifth floor of Midtown block with Korean restaurants and karaoke bars.
Then, as Jacob Kozinn predicted, demand for suits began to rebound, especially in the Wall Street market.
\"It seems fleeting to me,\" Jacob said of leisure trends . \".
\"There will be a character in the suit anyway.
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Still, with Wall Street companies reporting huge losses in the mortgage market, the economy is showing signs of weakness,
Kozinn is worried that demand may decrease again.
\"This is a recession --
Sensitive business, \"he said.
That\'s why the phone call from \"Jersey Boys\" costume designer Jesse Goldstein in 2005 is so important. Mr.
Goldstein says he needs a tailor and when they sing \"Walk Like a Man\" and \"Big Girls Don\'t Cry\" He can quickly and faithfully reproduce the style of the four seasons of the 1960 s.
\"There are not many tailors,\" he said. Goldstein said.
\"It\'s strange that it\'s an art of dying. ”Mr.
Goldstein outlined the clothes in his heart.
Narrow lapels and tight ties
And bring these sketches to Jacob Kexin, who turns them into patterns of jackets, shirts and casual pants. Mr.
Goldstein had to find gorgeous material because neither the thin stripes of the ancient plates or the plaids in St. Laurie worked. The trick, Mr.
Goldstein said it was to capture the medium term of the organization.
It looks like the 20 th century, but in order to attract the contemporary audience, we have adjusted it.
Jacob Kexin says he\'s making his clothes look more like --fitting.
After cutting out all the parts of each dress for the original Broadway actor, Jacob handed them over to Umberto Bove, a tailor from Sicily, who had been using needles in St. Mr.
Bove finished the costume with a group of seamstress
There are about a dozen actors each.
They have copied it at least a few times since then.
Last week, British actor Ryan Molloy visited the San Laurie factory for his first audition.
Next month, Kozinns will fly to London to measure the rest of the crew.
Then they only have a few weeks to finish the costume.
The work they did for the \"Jersey Boys\" has led to more display business orders. Mr.
Goldstein hired St. Laurie to make costumes for the home crew, which opened on Broadway last week.
The company has also made some costumes on stage in another new Broadway work, the seamen.
The advertisement \"you have been working hard, a lucky holiday is coming, you never know where that lucky holiday will be ,\"Kozinn said.
\"You can\'t make them.
\"A version of this article appears on the print on page B1 of the New York edition, titled: Broadway hit renaissance, tailor.
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