walk into the city garment factory in West Village, Manhattan, you can\'t help but sit down on a white vinyl bench near the entrance.
From there, you can enjoy the antique wardrobe in front of the mirror, as well as the champagne flute, the martini Shakel and the small metal Christmas tree.
There are many casual clothes suitable for young men and women (target age: 18-30)
As well as accessories, furniture, books, gifts, cosmetics and soap.
If you want shoes, you have to go to the back of the store near the checkout counter where the display is cleverly laid into a dressing room similar to a woman.
Half a mile away, you can find the same Martini and champagne glasses at the East Village store.
But you have to go downstairs and show the bar towels and ashtray on top of 1970 s
A cut beer barrel and an era bar made of orange leather with bar stools.
There are women\'s shoes near the entrance on the first floor, with an antique wooden table and a retro sofa to try on.
\"Our two stores are different,\" said Richard Hayne, 57.
This is intentional.
In the victory of retail trompe l\'oeil, each store changed the display, color scheme, cut-out decoration and audio track, giving a unique illusion ---
Although the goods at each location are basically the same.
But it does attract customers. Same-
Store sales in the industry have been flat in the summer.
In contrast, Hyne has accumulated £ 27% for his 68 city stores and £ 25% for his 58 anthropology stores (
For women aged 3045)
Quarter ended July 31.
\"You can almost freeze in the mall, it\'s too boring,\" Hayne said . \".
\"It\'s worth looking different.
\"Over the past 12 months, the company\'s EPS and sales have increased by 102% and 40% respectively, making the company 27 on our list of 200 Best Small Businesses.
Urban\'s share price has risen 92% so far this year to $36, making Hayne\'s 30% stake worth $0. 82 billion.
Urban\'s strategy is simple.
Implement strict budget control at the Philadelphia headquarters and give a long rope to employees in each store in terms of merchandise sales.
\"We believe in creativity very much,\" he said . \" Hyne founded the company in 1970.
In the old loose twist
On the page \"looking for excellence\", Hain built an organization that, as he said, \"works like both sides of the brain \".
\"How does it work?
Every Monday, city managers will analyze and respond to the sales situation last week;
On Tuesday, they often adjust orders, store displays, etc.
However, starting with the chief financial officer, the beans counter at headquarters focuses on potential issues in distribution and inventory, but does not--
Like other retailers. -
About sales decision
This job belongs to Glenn T, two brand presidents of the company.
Human scholar Senk and Ted G.
Urban\'s Marlow has a quarterly sales plan managed by budget and fashion forecasts.
The system is flexible enough to change direction on a weekly basis based on new information about sales and non-sales.
The president also decided on the frequency of rotation of the general merchandise in the store and the route to be emphasized.
Get leads from the president, buyers are responsible for specific categories of goods, they travel to Europe and Japan to get inspiration for shirts, pants, shoes, accessories, etc.
But they have extraordinary freedom. -
As Senk says, \"autonomy in structure \".
They must achieve the goal of income and gross profit margin (
The company refused to specify)
To get a bonus.
Nevertheless, they can still decide when to make a national price cut, which is a vital freedom.
City chief financial officer John Kyees said the decisions came from top management at other retailers such as limited.
\"If you cut the price when you need it, you\'re more likely to sell it,\" he said . \".
Store follows a similar hierarchy.
Three national creative directors-
Including her second wife, Margaret (Meg)--
Set the display budget;
Financial personnel usually adjust according to their own requirements.
But the individual decisions of each store are left to the district managers, and below them, the store vision managers and their employees, often artists and interior designers who manage decorative themes through training, positioning of goods and window displays.
\"There is a lot of freedom in the creative elements of the industry,\" Kyees said . \".
\"The structure of the company does not interfere;
We support this organization.
If we need better distribution, call center, more store locations-
It\'s our job to take care of it.
\"As the organization has elaborated, its development is somewhat casual.
In 1969, after Hain and his first wife, Judy Hain, received an anthropology degree at Lehigh University-both long-
The anti-war protesters were full-
Join Vista and spend 10 months of cold time near the Bering Sea, a small village in Chefornak, Alaska.
It was a very difficult experience for him.
\"It\'s like being cut off an arm,\" Hayne recalls . \".
\"No TV, no radio, almost no electricity.
They finally arrived in Philadelphia.
They opened a store near the University of Pennsylvania for $4,000, serving the University of great scholars and cashpoor hippies--
\"Children like us,\" Hyne recalls . \"
He showed early marketing tips, calling the store a free store, selling most of the old clothes, furniture and cheap gadgets from Asia.
At that time, the tied customers can get some clothes for free;
Today, the store sells old clothes under the private label \"City Update.
After the company changed its name that year, 1975 urban decoration companies expanded to New York and Boston.
\"The traditional wisdom of the time was gathering stores,\" said Michael Schulz . \" He left in 2000 after 15 years at the company and is now chief executive of British handbag designer Lulu Guinness.
\"But he wants to go where the fashionable little kids are.
\"How to tell what people want ---
Selling at a profitable price?
Hahn came up with a clever plan.
Because he refused to grow through debt. -
The motto he still insists on-
The city is too small (
6 stores in 1985)
Having any relationship with the supplier, the supplier refuses to accept the order for 20 T-shirts.
So Hahn entered the wholesale market for small businesses.
Contract with garment manufacturers mainly in Asia.
By producing your own private-
While conducting internal market research, he can label the goods and sell them to other retailers.
\"We can make the item ourselves and test how it is sold in our own stores and other stores,\" Schultz said . \".
Today, the wholesale department, known as free personnel, supplies up to one
Quarter of company merchandise (the rest--
From Diesel jeans to Puma shoes-
Bought in the market).
It also sold to 1,100 competitors.
If City buyers see something in a competitor\'s store that sells well, they can order the production line quickly and put it on the shelves.
By the beginning of 1990, Hyne found that his major clients were aging, a clear but critical finding.
Women earn more, settle down and have children;
Their taste is changing.
Few other retailers keep their initial focus and design a separate chain to attract customers as they get older and richer. (
A decade later, Gap was discussing similar projects. )
The result was a humanist, replacing the university with trendy door handles and exotic floral bedding
Ancient hot pot and lava lamps;
An Angolan sweater, not a baby sweater.
Haynla ran the 47-year-old Glen Seck chain.
After a successful run between Bloomingdale and Williams
Sonoma, Senk, is trying to open a food company in San Francisco.
But he found out how much he hated fundraising and went back to Hyne. -
How much autonomy does he have in the city: anthropology will operate as an independent enterprise with its own creative team, budget, market research, and even headquarters (at a 19th-
Century tower in Philadelphia, on the corner of the city\'s ancillary facilities).